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Copyright 1918 
ANNA HEDGES TALBOT 




1 and 2, Child's apron made from men's shirts — page 9. 3, Child's underskirt made from woolen 
stockings— page 9. 4 and 5, Child's dress made from man's shirt— page 23. 6, Infant's bootees 
made from kid gloves- page 13. 7, Infant's shirt made from knit underwear — page 11. 8, Child's 
sleeping cap made from short ends of yarn. 



Thrift Clothing 

MRS. ANNA HEDGES TALBOT, PH. D. 

New York State Specialist in Vocational Training; for Girls 

With Contributions by 

Mcttie B. Hills, Troy High School 

Laura M. Weisner, Buffalo Public ^Schools 

Household Arts Department 

State Normal School, Buffalo* N. Y. 



Drawings made by 
Margaret Giesecke, Technical High School 

Buffalo, New York 

Booklet arrangement by 
John C. Heinike, Elm Vocational School 

Printed by 
Boys of Elm Vocational School 

Buffalo, New York 









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9, Child's crocheted scarf— page 15. 10, Child's crocheted toque— page 15. 11, Man 
jacket— page 18. 12, Knitted cap— page 18. 13, Knitted wristlets— page 18. 14, Boy' 
from a pair of trousers— page 28. 15, Child's rompers made from man's shirt — page 22. 
cloth hats made from woolen suiting — page 15, 17, Re-footei stocking — page 29, 
knitted bonnet— page 18. / ^ v 

MAY 20 1918 ©CIA497888 



's sleeveless 

s suit made 

16, Child's 

18, Infant's 



Thrift Clothing 



A contribution can be made by every girl and 
woman who knows how to sew if they will make the 
effort to conserve the supply of textiles and other 
clothing materials by seeing the possibilities in the 
outgrown or partly worn garments now hanging in 
closets or stored away. The following suggestions 
about made-over garments are given with the idea 
of thrift and economy in view, whereby the supply 
of new clothing material may be released for the 
service of those who necessarily must have strong, 
warm and new material. 

Sewing classes in schools now have the chance, 
while the enthusiasm for thrift is in the air, to learn 
to cut by pattern with the added interest of shaping 
the result into a new article from that which otherwise 
would be discarded. Cleansing, repairing, remodel- 
ling may have the interest of becoming almost a 
game, the goal of which is to attain new garments 
from old ones by plotting, planning, twisting and 
turning until the old yields the new in form and 
purpose. Hats, cloaks, dresses, men's coats, trousers, 
overcoats, knit underwear, with accessories such as 
tape, linings, buttons, hooks and eyes, ribbons, pieces 
of silk, velvet, cotton goods, buckles, may all contri- 
bute to new shapes and designs under the manipula- 
tion of fingers in training, directed by the ingenuity 
of teachers who are stimulated to their best efforts 
by the present emergency. 



Thrift Clothing 



Clothing to be made over by school pupils should 
be sterilized, fumigated, or otherwise thoroughly 
cleansed before being handled. Health depart- 
ments or dyeing establishments treat effectively 
large collections of clothing, and render them clean 
and safe for the hands of the pupils. The disposal 
of the remodelled garments, when the collection is 
made for war relief purposes, may best be decided 
by each school or locality. 



Suggestions for the Conservation 
of Clothing 

Partly worn clothing may be remodeled and made 
into practical, attractive garments for children. All 
material to be remodeled, should be carefully ripped, 
brushed, sponged and pressed, or washed and ironed. 

NOTE:- Use white soap for flannels or flannelette, and soap bark 
for colored and wool materials. All suggestions are for partly 
worn clothing. 

/. Skirts on Waist 

Make loose waist with low neck and large arm- 
holes. Use drilling, sateen, flannelette or coarse 
cotton. Button down back. Finish neck and armholes 
with bias facings. Use one and one half widths of 
flannelette for small skirts, two widths for larger 
garments. Fell seams. Turn two inch hems. 



Thrift Clothing 



2. Rompers 

May be made of partly worn summer dresses of 
firm materials, mens' flannel shirts or pieces of flan- 
nellette. Use French seams. 

3. One-piece Dress 

Use any simple design. May be made of wool 
dresses, wool skirts or dark flannelette pieces. 

4. Work Apron 

May be made of wash dresses or mens' shirts. 
Use kimona pattern, slant shoulders to fit, cut neck 
low and armholes large. 

Finish with finishing braid or bias bands of ma- 
terial. 

5. Coats 

Use a good pattern. Press material thoroughly. 
Tailors will make button holes for a small sum. 
Collars and muffs of same material or pieces of 
velvet. 

6. Bonnets 

Boys caps, girls hats, baby socks, bed shoes, 
invalids slippers make over into baby bonnets. 

7. Crib Quilts 

The lower part of bathrobes may be cut 27" x 36" 
or larger and bound with bias strips of sateen, satin, 
old ribbon or farmers satin. Crepe cloth or other 
light weight bathrobes may be utilized for the same 



8 Thrift Clothing' 

purpose by interlining with sheet wadding and tuft- 
ing with odd bits of wool or baby ribbon. 

8. Baby Gowns 

May be cut from the lower part of bathrobes. 
Fell the seams of heavy material, use French seams 
on thin cloth. Use kimona or set in sleeve. 



Child's Apron 

Age 4 Years 

: (Fig. i) 

Material 

May be cut from a man's shirt which is badly 
worn at the neck and sleeves. 



Directio 



ns 



Fold back of shirt in middle, place pattern for 
front of apron well down on shirt, so as to use best 
part of shirt. 

Cut back of apron from shirt fronts, saving* but- 
tons and buttonholes. 

Use flat fell for seams. 

Finish pockets, arm holes and neck with white 
bias tape. 



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10 Thrift Clothing 

Child's Underskirt 

Age 4 to 5 Years 
{Fig. 2) 

Material 
Made from woolen stockings. 

Directions 
Cut off worn feet of six stockings. 

Slit each up the back seam, sew the six flattened 
out stockings together making the top of the hose 
the bottom of the skirt. 

This is already hemmed. 

Hem placket. 

Put on a band or finish for drawstring. 

May be made from four stockings if a large size. 



Wool Drawers 

{Fig. 4) 

Cut from the firmest part of the old garment. 

Use fell seams — halfback stitch, lay flat and hem. 

Do not sew on machine as it cuts the material. 

Make continuous placket of muslin. 

Finish legs with hem or with blanket stitch or 
crocheted edge. 

Face top with muslin strip or with a muslin band. 



BABY NIGHTDRESS 

MADE. FP.01^1 A \*yOP.m WOOL SHIRT 



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12 Thrift Clothing 

Baby Nightdress 

(Fig. 3) 

Make a kimona slip of flannelette or flannel from 
men's shirts. 

Open half way down front. Face one side and use 
extension piece for button side. 

French seam. Finish neck with bias facing of same. 

Finish sleeve and bottom with one inch hem. 

Run tape in bottom of hem that it may be drawn 
up for warmth. 



Sewing Aprons 

(Fig. 5a) 

These aprons may be made from the good portions 
of muslin sheets, men's shirts, women's cotton dress 
skirts. 



Infant's Boots 

Size 4 to 8 months. 
{Fig. 5) 

Material 

Made from tops of long kid gloves. 
Bootees similar to these sell for 75 cents in the 
stores. 



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FIG-. 5a. 




14 Thrift Clothing 

Directions 

Cut off fingers of gloves. 

Cut gloves open along line of seams. 

Place pattern on glove as shown in diagram. 

Cut leather according to pattern. 

Place leather pieces on silk, sateen or other mater- 
ial suitable for lining; either pink or blue is good. 

Stitch outside and lining together near edge. 

Cut lining same as outside. 

Ball stitch edges together. 

Buttonhole top and side. 

Place 3 eyelets on each side. 

Twist cord of colored thread same as used in 
buttonholing. 

Pieces of felt or other heavy material may be used 
instead of kid. 



Girls Cloth Hat 

(Fig. 6) 

This hat may be made of any partly worn heavy 
suiting such as, — men's clothing, women's suitings, 
cloaks, etc., or odd pieces of same. Interline brim 
with tailor's canvas. Stitch in l % inch rows to 
stiffen. Line hat with any lining material or light 
weight woolen cloth. Trim with bias stitched bands 
of same, braid or ribbon. Do not use wire. 



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16 Thrift Clothing 

Child's Crocheted Scarf and Toque 

Size 4 to 5 years 
{Fig. 7) 

Material 
Knitting yarn 2 hanks. 
One celluloid crochet hook No. 3. 

Directions 

Toque — Make a chain of 51 stitches. 

Row 1 — In 2nd stitch of chain work 1 single 
crochet (Sg. C), chain 2, 1 double crochet (D. C.) 
in same stitch*, skip 2 stitches 1 Sg. C. in next stitch, 
chain 2, 1 D. C. in same stitch; repeat from* to end 
of row; chain 1, turn. 

Row 2 — *1 Sg. C. in hole made by two chain 
below, chain 2, 1 D. C. in same stitch, repeat from* 
to end of row, chain. 1 turn. Repeat row 2 for all 
the work. Work 12 inches. Sew up sides. 

Band — With right side of work toward you, work 
1 Sg. C. in each stitch, work round always taking up 
the whole stitch of preceeding row until band meas- 
ures 3^2 inches; turn band back and sew corners down 
with two buttons or pompons, 

Scarf - - Make a chain of 40 stitches, using same 
stitch as in toque, work up remainder of yarn unless 
fringe is desired, if so save enough for 2 inch fringe 
composed of 2 strands of yarn. 



Thrift Clothing 17 

Sleeveless Jacket 

Open Front 
{Fig. 8) 

Conservation of time, money and wool. 

May be easily slipped from a wounded man with- 
out cutting the garment; cleansed and returned to 
him when convalescing or it may be passed on to 
another. 

Material 

Two and one-half hanks of yarn 5 ,slb. 

One pair Red Cross Needles No. 3 or Standard 

Gauge No. 5 

Directions 

Cast on 80 stitches, Knit 2, purl 2 stitches for 4 
inches. 

Knit plain until sweater measures 23 inches. 

Knit 28 stitches, and take off on safty pin; bind off 
24 stitches for neck, loose. 

Knit 28 stitches for other shoulder. 

*Knit 2, purl 2 for the 28 stitches, continue until 
purling on shoulder measures 3 inches. 

Knit plain, increasing at neck by adding one stitch 
on inside end of needle on each row until you have 40 
stitches on needle. 

Knit plain for 21 inches. 

Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. 

Take up stitches on remaining shoulder and repeat 
from*. 

Finish inside edge with 8 rows of slip stitch [crochet] 

Five buttonholes should be left on the left side of 
sweater. 

Use smooth buttons of neutral color. 



SUCEVELESS JACKET 




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IHFAriTi KMlTTep BONNET 





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Thrift Clothing 19 

Infant's Knitted Bonnet 

Size 6 months to 1 year 
{Fig. 9) 

Material 
Soft gray yarn. 

Light blue Zephyr or Shetland Floss. 
Amber knitting needles standard gauge No. 3. 

Directions 

Cast on 60 stitches 

Knit plain for SO rows or 25 ribs 

Bind off 20 stitches, knit 20 stitches, bind off 
remaining 20 stitches. 

Knit down center piece 25 rows, bind off. 

Shape bonnet by sewing sides to center piece. 

Turn back 7 rows to form cuff around front. 

Finish edge of cuff and neck with crocheted scallop 
of color. 

Crochet one thread of gray and one of blue to 
form string for tying, finish ends with tassel. 



Knitted Cap 

(Fig. 10) 

Material 

Required 1 skein, 4 ply. 
Four needles number 10 steel. 



20 



T h r.tf.t. Cloth 



Directions 

Cast on 48 stitches on each of 3 needles, join. 
it 1, purl 1 etc. continue for 5 inches. 



Kn 
Kn 
Kn 
Kn 
Kn 
Kn 
Kn 
Kn 
Kn 
Kn 
Kn 
Kn 
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t plain for l l 2 inches. 



t 7 stitches, knit 8 and 9 together etc. 
it plain 7 rows. 

it 6 stitches, knit 7 and 8 together etc. 
it plain 6 rows. 

t 5 stitches, knit 6 and 7 together etc. 
it plain 5 rows. 

it 4 stitches, knit 5 and 6 together etc. 
it plain 4 rows. 

it 3 stitches, knit 4 2nd 5 together etc. 
it plain 3 rows. 

it 2 stitches, knit 3 and 4 together etc. 
it plain 2 rows. 

it 1 stitch, knit 2 and 3 together etc. 
t plain 1 row. 
t 1 and 2 together etc. 
Bind off by slipping end of yarn through remaining 
stitches, fasten. 



Wristlets 

{Fig. 11) 

Double Wearing, Easy to Slip On. 
Conservation of Time Money and Wool. 

Materials 

One half hank of yarn 1 8 lb. 

Four Red Cross needles No. 1 or four needles 
Standard Gauge No. 3 



Thrift Clothing 21 

Directions 

Cast on 52 stiches on 3 needles; 16 — 16 — 20. 

Knit 2 purl 2 for 2 inches. 

*To make opening for thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end 
of 3rd needle, turn; knit and purl back to end of 1st 
needle, always slipping first stitch; turn. 

Continue knitting back and forth for 2 inches. 

From this point continue as at first for 4 inches. 

To make second opening for thumb repeat from* 
for 2 inches. 

From this point continue as at first for 2 icnhes. 

Bind off loosely and buttonhole openings. 



Child's Rompers 

Age 2 years 
{Fig- 12) 

Material 
Made from a man's shirt. 

Directions 

Baste seams with notches and perforation match- 
ing. 

Place seam of sleeve and under-arm seam of body 
together. 

Gather rompers back between notches. 

Fold belt with long edges together and join 
rompers back to long edges of belt as notched. 

Button and buttonholes in shirt will serve in body 
back of rompers. 

Collar may be cut double, stitched around outside 
edge and turned or it may be cut single and bound 
with bias. Leave collar free at left side and finish 
free edge with a binding; place snap on free edge. 



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Thrift Clothing 29 

Miscellaneous Suggestions 

A sleeveless jacket of any cotton material may be 
lined with kid gloves from which the fingers have 
been cut. These kid gloves should first have been 
cleaned, then cut so as to make a flat surface. Sew 
these pieces together on the machine in the form of 
the old-time crazy quilt. Press open the seams to 
make a flat surface of kid. Line the cotton sleeveless 
jacket with this kid cut to fit the outside covering 
Bind the edges with tape or narrow ribbon and the 
result will be a warm vest for man, woman or child. 
A paper vest may be used as a pattern for making 
this kid-lined vest. 

Re-making Stockings May Be Done 
In Several Ways 

1. Cutoff the stocking at the ankle and sew to 
the stocking leg the stocking foot purchased at the 
stores for that purpose to stocking the leg part. 

2. The McCall Pattern Co. has made a conservation 
pattern " BB " in six sizes from child's stocking to 
women's stocking. This pattern arranges for the worn 
part of the stocking to be removed and an insert 
made to renew the stocking. The seams are so placed 
as not to interfere with the pressure of the foot 
against the shoe. 

Woolen Yarn 

The present scarcity of woolen yarn may be met in 
some measure by ravelling out the yarn in discarded, 
knitted or crocheted garments, such as sweaters, socks 



30 Thrift Clothing 

mufflers, shawls, hoods, afghaus, couch covers, lap 
robes. These odd colors may be dyed to make a large 
amount of the same color. Washing, dyeing and 
winding will remove the krinkle. 



Patchwork Crib Quilt 

Pieces of flannelette from the piece bag or remnants 
from the cutting of garments should be cut into 
squares or oblongs of uniform size. Join these with 
running stitches. Make the finished size 36 inches by 
36 inches. A border of flannelette 2 inches wide adds 
strength and attractiveness to the quilt. Machine 
stitch the border to the patchwork center. 

An interlining of sheet wadding, blanketing, quilt, 
or white spread is tacked to patchwork square. The 
layers are lined with flannelette and the thicknesses 
are tied together at four inch intervals. 

Fifth grade pupils may do the hand sewing and 
tieing; the machine work on the border is work for 
the upper grades. 

Quilts for full sized beds maybe made similarly of 
pieces of woolen suiting collected from tailors shops. 
These pieces of dark colors make durable and warm 
covers for couches and beds. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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